Prior to kicking off Air Cooler testing for the lab, I was not familiar with Titan and their product line. What I have come to learn is that Titan is all about cooling and accesories, with a product line ranging from CPU coolers, fans and notebook coolers to power inverters and heat guns. Titan was founded back in 1989 in Taiwan under the name Sogic Computer and three years later changed to present name, Titan. Doing the background research on Titan, they regularly improve and design products for the enthusiast and general PC/Notebook markets. If you were like me and are unfamiliar with Titan, take some time to peruse their site as I am sure you will be seeing more and more of their coolers fighting for a spot of the top performing coolers as time goes on.
Titan, like many other heatsink manufacturers has several coolers on the market and we have their flagship cooler the Fenrir on our bench for review today. I might be slightly off with this version being the flagship cooler, but the latest revision only appears to be cosmetic changes. Therefore, with that stated it is time to move on and kick off the features and specs discussion of the Titan Fenrir.
Starting out, the Fenrir comes in one of those evil clamshell/blister pack packages that absolutely drive me nuts. The blister packs are great for retail packaging, but I usually end up with some sort of small injury out of trying to get the goodies out of the packaging. Enough about my issues though, the Fenrir comes equipped for mounting to current AMD and Intel sockets including AM2, AM2+, AM3, LGA775 and LGA1366 (no love for you LGA1156 folks). While I can only directly comment on the LGA1366 install, the mount system is the same for all socket types. Before covering the mount process, we need to cover a quick rundown of the dimensions for the Fenrir. Fanless, the Fenrir measures in at 156mm tall, 124mm wide and 82mm deep. Strap a 120x25mm fan like the included stock fan and your depth increases to 107mm, which is the max depth since the Fenrir only has mounts for a single fan… well you could end up at 120mm depth with an open corner 120x38mm fan.
Working our way through the physical characteristics, Titan designed the Fenrir with a 111mm fin tower sporting fifty 0.5mm thick aluminum fins spaced 1.5mm apart. The measurements on the fin tower should jump out at you as optimized for high airflow (we will get to more on that in a minute). Moving down the fin tower, we get to the base, where the four 8mm diameter direct touch heat pipes come into the aluminum base that you can see pictured at the bottom of the page. With a direct touch heat pipe system, the heat pipes are exposed and have only a layer of TIM in between them and the IHS versus connected to a copper base which makes contact to the IHS (layer of TIM in between obviously). The idea for a direct touch system is to have the heat pipes pull the heat directly off the IHS rather than deal with heat transfer from the copper base to the heat pipes, the heat pipes then wick the heat upwards towards the fin tower to be dissipated by airflow over the fins. As I mentioned earlier, the tight spacing and resulting air restriction of the fifty fins means the Fenrir is optimized for higher airflow and this is why Titan bundled their TFD-12025H12ZP fan with silver blades in the retail package. The bundled fan is rated for 2600RPM/91CFM/43.4dBA, but Titan lists the bundled fan at 2150RPM/78.41CFM/39dBA for maximum ratings. Yes, I am a bit confused as well but I will say the fan is rather noisy at full speed even to my half-deaf lobes. Also to note, the fan does not have a great RPM to air flow scale which is surprising for being a PWM fan. In the testing to come later in this review, we only ran the stock fan at full RPM due to the performance scaling when undervolting.
The mounting system on the Titan Fenrir is straightforward and quite simple for LGA1366, using a hard mount versus the typical spring tension system found on so many coolers. To start, put the backplate with the static posts through the backside of the board, then work the top mount plate through the heat pipes on to the top of the base so it rests in the recess of the base. Now prep the CPU IHS with TIM (Titan does include TIM, but we toss that aside and use our own), then set the cooler on the CPU aligning the posts into the LGA1366 holes on the mount plate (we suggest fan parallel to socket arm orientation for best performance). Once you have the cooler on the chip, take the 4 thumbnuts and thread them on to the posts but only enough to hold until you have all four thumbuts threaded. Now, finish tightening the four thumbnuts in an X pattern until they reach the predefined stop. With the cooler mounted and secure you can now mount up the fan with the two included wire clips which will work with any open corner 120mm fan. I personally hooked the clips into the fan holes and then pulled both back simultaneously towards the notches on the side and locked the fan in. To finish out, just plug the fan into the CPU PWM header or your choice fan controller and you are done. Not only is the mount system quite easy, but it is also quite easy to describe, which is a first for the air coolers we have reviewed.
Covering the features/specs and the mount system, Titan has a very strong cooler optimized for high airflow with the Fenrir. The mount system and easy to secure fan clips were a nice change of pace from some of the other coolers we have tested. Struggling with fan clips is one of the worst frustrations to encounter and I can only imagine that struggle to get worse inside a case versus the open air and room of a Torture Rack that I use. You have endured enough of my blabbering for this page, time for some visuals to go along with my feature and specs description of the Titan Fenrir.
Once again, I need to point out some of the photos were snapped after testing had been completed which is obvious if you look at the base photo with the TIM wedged in between the heat pipes and aluminum channels, which I did try to remove but was a wasted effort. One of these days, I will learn to prep all of my photos before testing. Also on the base photo is bit of oxidation that will come off when I prep the cooler for storage by giving a good rub down with a Krazy Kloth (a must for keeping copper looking new). Moving on to the next page we cover our Test Methodology before we dive into the performance and test results of the Fenrir.