Primochill Typhoon III

Typhoon III Reservoir System

The Typhoon III is available in 3 different varieties–just the Typhoon III, with D5 Basic or with a D5 Vario, and a non-pumped 8 port reservoir only that has the same front as the pumped version. The unit we have in house is the basic unit known as the Typhoon III Reservoir System – PEC. Regardless of which package you choose for your build, the unit comes with 2 metal hex screw plugs and allen wrench for the front fill ports, hex screws with washers, polycarbonate spacers for mounting the T3 in your 5.25″ bays, pump mount plate and o-ring, and countersunk M4 pump mount screws. In addition to all of that, the Typhoon III comes with four 1/2″ ID x 3/4″ OD and four 3/8″ ID x 5/8″ OD Ghost Compression fittings (not pictured), and a pair of their interesting little tool free LED plugs where the cap is actually the wrench and also the LED holder. PrimoChill definitely prepared a full kit and left no surprises or disappointments when you get your T3. There are so many goodies and extras included with the Typhoon III Reservoir System, I had to include the full kit details from the PrimoChill website to make sure I did not forget something, see the official full kit photo to take in all of the goodies.

  • Base Typhoon III PEC Unit (D5 Pump Optional)
  • D5/D4 Mounting Kit
    • Bracket for mounting pump to unit
    • 4x M4 Countersink screws
    • 1x Black O-Ring
  • Anti-Vibration Mounting Kit
    • 4x M3.5 mounting screws
    • 4x 1.0mm Rubber Washers
    • 4x 0.5mm Rubber Washers
    • 4x 1.5mm Acrylic Washers
  • 2x Nickel Platted front port caps with hex wrench
  • 2x Clear polycarbonate Twister LED Plugs – with choice of color LEDs
  • 4x 1/2in. x 3/4in. Ghost Compression Fittings
  • 4x 3/8in. x 5/8in. Ghost Compression Fittings



Overall, the installation was very easy with no serious surprises, though I have to admit I did falter on the supplied o-ring for a few minutes before figuring out where that is supposed to go.

My method for mounting the pump started with setting the T3 on its face (fill ports down). I then placed the o-ring pump head–you may have to nudge it to the bottom of the head. The o-ring will seat properly once the pump motor is in, so don’t worry about it being perfect at this point. At this stage, I placed the D5 motor into the pump head–notice I said place, not force–because forcing it in is not needed. Now string the molex cable through the mount bracket and loosely set the four M4 screws, for tightening the screws down I use same method as mounting CPU blocks by tightening the screws diagonally a few turns for each until all four screws are snug. Just remember there is no need to really torque on the screws, just make sure they are tight. Once the mounting plate has contacted the surface of the T3 there is no point in going tighter.

In the picture above you can see the three-stage overflow basins with the front fill/bleed/drain plugs. Also visible in the rear to the right are, the pump impeller areas with the four in/out ports somewhat visible on the left.

Above you see the back end of the D5 Vario held in place by the mounting bracket and four M4 screws. The first two ports to the right of the pump are the outlets. The two ports farthest to the right are the inlets. As you can see the inlets and outlets are stacked. Some of the graphs and the data chart below will refer to these as, for example TITO, which is Top Inlet Top Outlet.

Features and Configuration Options

One of the problems I faced reviewing the Typhoon III is there are so many subtle design features and a radical change from the typical aftermarket pump top that there are just so many things to cover. I brushed over the fittings that come with the Typhoon III quite quickly earlier, so I want to take a moment to talk about the Ghost Compressions. Once again, I am here to dispel forum fallacy…these compressions will not break. I stepped on them, tried pulling tubing off and even landed a few blows with a hammer. Tubing does not get cut (as one forum poster suggested after looking at a picture of the fitting). I took tubing on and off threading the threading the compression ring each time without a single issue. Rest assured, you can use the Ghost Compression fittings without any worry, they are just as good as other compression fittings out there…except Ghost Compressions are available color matched exactly to PrimoFlex LRT with, I am told, 4 new colors on the way.

If you have not had the chance to scroll down and take a look at the image below–now would be a good time. The image below gives the best angle I could capture of the PEC and another ease of use feature I mentioned earlier…the Fill/Bleed traps. Every single time I have filled a loop I always end up with some sort of spill, which is usually on some component that really should not get wet. The Typhoon III has a couple of levels of protection for when you are in the process of filling. The two front fill ports are sectioned off in a catch basin with a nice lip that collects any overflow or spillage while filling. Run over that first line of defense and the next trap is there to catch the overflow rather than let it run into your components. Also with this design feature is the slight angle on the inside of the reservoir, which helps channel those annoying air pockets and bubbles to the fill port. I should also mention the best orientation for filling and bleeding that I found was having the fill ports as vertical as possible but angled toward the fill port you are using. This method made for rather quick loop bleeding. For testing, I used a mock 5.25 bay equipped “case” to mount the Typhoon III into, so I could have the T3 in the same orientation and get a feel for looping, fill/bleed, and draining. The best way to fill/bleed is to rock your case back so the fill ports are vertical (12 o’clock), take filling nice and slow like you normally do, but any little spill will be caught by the spill basins. Just have a paper towel or Shamwow! ready to empty the excess. With the T3 in this orientation, you can safely run your pump as well which makes air bleeding and topping off quite quick. In about 90% of the cases out there this method is going to be the easiest and fastest fill port solution.

I promised a photo of the Typhoon III filled with fluid other than distilled water, and while I took a lot of shots using UV lights, none of them really turned out to be the quality I wanted. However, here is a shot of the T3 filled with a deep blue UV coolant and giving you one more shot of the dual inlet and outlet ports with the included LED plugs in the Top Inlet and Outlet.

Note: Use of cooling fluids that contain Ethylene Glycol (Feser One) or any other harsh chemicals void the warranty for this product.

Where to buy…

As I mentioned earlier in the review, the kit I tested is the Typhoon III Reservoir System – PEC, but PrimoChill offers kits with a D5 Basic and D5 Vario. My personal recommendation–go with the kit that includes the D5 Vario then just add tubing and you’re set. Unless you already have a pump handy.  The Kits come with everything you need to loop the T3. The kit I tested is a couple bucks more expensive than the other aftermarket D5 tops, but for the performance and accessories you get with a Typhoon III, you more than get your dollars’ worth.

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